How Black Dandyism shaped this year’s Met Gala’s best looks
In an exploration of Black identity and culture, the Met Gala highlights a historical movement through innovative, iconic looks from artists alike.
By Rachel Meatte
The Met Gala is back with a new theme celebrating Black culture, history and Dandyism in a title called “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style.” Dandyism is known as the stylistic way of individual expression involving rebellious norms through fashion.
Historically, Black Dandyism has been a way for Black Americans to express themselves during an era where other groups of people showcased innovative, sophisticated looks in society.
A mix between European style fashion and Black cultural identity, the rise of Black Dandyism was a response to black slavery in a post-emancipation era during the 18th century. According to Author Monica L Miller’s book “Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity,” fashion was a way for Black people to define their own image in response to the image created by non-black oppressors. Slave owners wore well-tailored and stylish clothing while Black slaves wore similar clothing. The intention was to make them all look the same, according to Miller in an interview with the BBC.
The fashion itself involves elegant, refined clothing such as tailored jackets with long tails, flamboyant bold hats and pristinely waxed mustaches. Sophisticated styles and glamorous clothing were integral parts of the cultural movement.
The event is held annually at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in Central Park of New York. It is a prestigious fundraising event each year that benefits the costume institute, one of the museum’s departments. Since its opening year back in 1948, the event has transcended into the fashion industry’s biggest event of the year attracting the likes of famous celebrities like Kim Kardashian, Zendaya and Nicole Kidman.
This year, the event raised its largest amount of more than $31 million, according to The New York Times, the looks were swinging in full force with striped tailored jackets and enormous flappy hats. Some looks resembled 1920’s era fashion featuring flapper dresses and sleeked back, masculinized hairstyles by women. Jennie, a famous member of the Korean K-pop group “Black Pink” showed up rocking a sleek hair bun underneath a black and white two-toned boater hat. She was amongst most fashion attendees who strictly wore black and white outfits matching the symbolic theme “Tailored for you.”
Zendaya wore a Louis Vuitton white tailored jacket paying homage to the famous zoot suit, a high-waisted tightly cuffed baggy trouser, which was a staple in Black Dandyism. Famous singer and brand owner of Fenty Beauty Rihanna, now pregnant with her third child arrived sporting a Marc Jacobs custom outfit of a black cropped wool jacket, bodysuit, pinstriped wool skirt and a polka dot satin cravat. The popstar, who’s known for her iconic Met Gala looks, didn’t disappoint and was considered a highlight, according to several articles like Vogue and BBC.
Indian actor and singer Diljit Dosanjh was another fan favorite, showing up in a custom Prabal Gurung cream matelassé tailored jacket. He paid homage to his Punjabi heritage wearing a jewel studded turban and handmade floral crystal embroidery, combined with a leopard print skirt. His outfit stuck out to many and beat out all 306 contestants in a fan favorite best dressed contest, according to The Indian Express. Dosanjh wore a beautifully jeweled necklace based upon the rule of princely state of Patiala.
He asked Cartier if he could wear the original necklace to which they declined based off of the delicacy of the necklace. Dosanjh’s eagerness to obtain the historical artifact was a prime example of his commitment to reflect his Indian culture.
Formula 1 race car driver Lewis Hamiliton got off the racetrack to attend the Met, wearing an ivory tailored suit styled by designer Grace Wales Bonner in a modern-day version of Black Dandyism. His cropped jacket and high-waisted trousers with his tuxedo stripe fit in well with the thematic looks displayed at the New York City fashion event.
Other notable looks that didn’t go unnoticed were Sabrina Carpenter’s burgundy tailored bodysuit styled by Louis Vuitton. Her dramatic dandy tailcoat stuck out alongside her corset bodice and stripped wool pattern. Some online viewers didn’t agree with her choice and thought it resembled a circus ringleader.
One commentor on the online platform X said, “I would never suggest this color or the ‘ringmaster’ costume to begin with, but it’s a perfect example of how dressing against your body type can go horribly wrong.” Carpenter responded on X stating, “damn I f***** up.”
R&B singer Teyana Taylor wore a custom three-piece striped suit designed in collaboration with Marc Jacobs and two-time Oscar-winning Costume Designer Ruth E. Carter. The Zoot suit was authentically designed and included a plethora of easter eggs any fashion enthusiast would be delighted to discover.
K-pop rapper and singer S. Coups dazzled a designer Hugo Boss gray tailored suit heavily inspired by a Korean hanbok jeogori jacket. The woolen jacket featured a hanbok double-breasted collar and black lined collar.
This year’s outfits uplifted the meaning of Black Dandyism which explored the theme. From long pinstriped tailcoats to bold tailored black suits, the choices to expand on the theme allowed a wide variety of intricate designs that were influential during the 18th century for Black people.
If you would like to explore this year’s outfits by attendees, you can visit the Vogue website to see what they looked like on the runway.
